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Power Window Regulators


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#1 okc63avanti

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Posted 08 August 2012 - 10:02 PM

Even my old original power window regulators tighten up with new motors require some coaxing, geez I can't image why Studebaker didn't build the regulators to hold up longer than 50 years. NOS PW regulators are non-obtanium I would assume Avanti Motors used them all up for avanti II's.

Has any one tried the brand new regulators fitted with GM motors that Rene' Harger at Slick Street Stuff sales? If so I would appreciate some comments as to how they fit, he says the are bolt-in and comments on how well they work.

Thanks,

John

#2 Gunslinger

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Posted 09 August 2012 - 06:14 AM

If you're interested, I have two good used regulators and two NOS regulators that are supposed to be for power windows. If you're interested in them I can dig them out and take pics for you to see. They're stored away and I don't remember what attachments are on them. If there are part numbers on them I can determine if they're for power windows.

#3 okc63avanti

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Posted 09 August 2012 - 10:19 PM

Studebaker Parts manual shows different parts numbers for Power Window regulators before serial no. 5507 and after serial no. 5507. Does anybody know the story behind the change in part numbers for the same item?

My car is 63R2386 so the right front regulator is 1357722 and the left front regulator is 1357723. I would probably me interested in the NOS regulators if they are right part nos. and are a pair for left and right doors. I'm also wondering if anyone has ever removed the stepped rivets from pivot points and thought about machining olite or Delrin stepped bearings to replace the rivots.

#4 okc63avanti

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Posted 08 November 2012 - 11:16 PM

Has anyone tried these new power window regulators from Rene' Harger at Slick Street Stuff? If so I would like to hear your comments on installation, operation, etc.

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#5 Harvey

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Posted 09 November 2012 - 10:41 PM

Hi John,
I'm having the same problem. I installed new motors (400.00), lubed all moving parts and installed new lower rollers on the window channel. Still a problem raising windows without "manual" assistance. Reading other threads advise to wind up the regulator springs. If the price of the regulators you posted are for 2 I would be willing to share the cost. You take one and I take one as a test. At least we would only be out 1/2 the cost each. If they are 465 each I will continue with the "armstrong" assist method. Harvey

#6 okc63avanti

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Posted 10 November 2012 - 08:50 AM

Hi John,
I'm having the same problem. I installed new motors (400.00), lubed all moving parts and installed new lower rollers on the window channel. Still a problem raising windows without "manual" assistance. Reading other threads advise to wind up the regulator springs. If the price of the regulators you posted are for 2 I would be willing to share the cost. You take one and I take one as a test. At least we would only be out 1/2 the cost each. If they are 465 each I will continue with the "armstrong" assist method. Harvey


I believe that is the price for a pair but a call to the Hargers would be necessary to confirm that. My car is fresh off a complete frame off restoration by Myer Studebaker. Michael did a great job and I was with him when we worked on the windows. New rollers, tracks, motors, switches, etc. and the windows must be helped up when near bottom position. The original regulators were tightened up and cleaned and springs were wound tight. We didn't replace springs however. I use the windows and when lowering them I tend to leave about an inch of window sticking up below lowest position to have something to pull up on, it also helps to open the door when pulling them up, I'll post on SDC forum as well and see if anyone has had experience with these. Brand new regulators with modern motors sounds like a good idea but I sure would like to hear from someone who has tried them.




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