Jump to content

original engine number AVANTI II VIN RQB2403 ?


Ingeborg de Blende

Recommended Posts

please can anybody tell me where i can find the original engine number?

the engine that is inside seems to be from 1971 with number 11C155421V0406 CGC

the technical inspection does not accept this engine because too much bad gas coming out

The seller did nog tell me this... said all was original (bought it in spain) thx

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The original manufacture of the engine was Chevrolet Division of General Motors. Their code is stamped on a pad on the engine block just in front of the right side (Viewed from inside the car) cylinder head. If the engine has been rebuilt it may be missing as it will get ground off when the block is machined (decked) to flatten the cylinder head mounting area.

Hopefully this should help you. http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Chevy_engine_casting_numbers

If you can find the numbers, post them if you have trouble with the code. There are a lot of resources around we can help you with.

Bob

Edited by Avanti83
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ingeborg, You can obtain the original production order (birth certificate) for your '75 Avanti, but unlike the earlier PO's for Studebaker Avantis, I do not believe that you'll find your car's engine serial number on it....I don't think Avanti Motors listed the engine serial number on their PO's......The good news here is the number that you posted indicates that your car doesn't have the 400 cubic inch Chevy engine, as 400 serial numbers usually have an "F" in them. This is good because the big 400's do naturally push out more emissions. Your engine is probably the 350 CI.

Although your Avanti's original '75 engine, (which more than likely would have been the 400 CI version), may have been replaced with a '71 350 at some point in time, It's entirely possible Avanti Motors purchased an older stock (of brand new) 350 engines, and the engine that's in your Avanti now originally came with the car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks for the help.sO MY CAR IS FROM 1976 BUT THE ENGINE IS FROM 1971 AND MIGHT BE THE ORIGINAL ?

problem is that the technical inspection says this motor has too much emission and do not want to register it in germany

that is why i am checking out what the orginal engine might have been to go the the seller and tell him.little complicated this story, especially if i don't know anything about it..; but it is a nice car though...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry....thought I read your Avanti was a '75....it's a '76!...Anyway, I was wondering if all the original emission equipment your Avanti left the factory with is still installed on the car?....That would consist of the 'Computer Command Control System' (Computer controlled carburetor and distributor), Belt driven air pump, Stainless steel air tubes plumbed into exhaust manifolds, and functioning catalytic converter?.....If everything emission related is indeed still installed and working, then your Avanti would pass emissions here in the U.S.......In Germany though, the emission regulations may be much more stringent?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is a show called "Wheeler Dealers" that originates in England. They purchased a Cobra replica that had a 350 Chevrolet that wouldn't meet emission standards in England and made some changes that brought it into compliance. I don't know how far out you are or if the year may change emissions numbers you need to meet but if you can find the stamping on the block then you will have a good shot at establishing year of manufacture.

This is a site to download the show on the Cobra with a 350 Chevrolet. Hope you can view it. http://watchseries.lt/episode/wheeler_dealers_s9_e8.html

Bob

Edited by Avanti83
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Relatively speaking, the size of engine does not effect the amount emissions put out. The condition of the engine compression and ignition will affect the hydrocarbon (HC) output, the amount of fuel will affect the carbon monoxide or CO output (rich carburetor) and the heat and/or compression ratio will affect the NOx (oxides of nitrogen readings). An efficient engine in good condition will burn most of the fuel and have low emissions. This is just a general overview of emissions control.

Your 76 does not have a computer controlled carburetor. It has a basic old fashioned Rochester Quadra-Jet unless someone changed it and I doubt they added a computer controlled carb. The car does have an air injection system which is a huge benefit to reducing HC and CO emissions. make sure it is all there and working. Your car also has an EGR valve which controls the NOx. Make sure it is functioning properly, which means the valve holds vacuum and does not stick, it has a good vacuum source and its passages to the intake and exhaust are clear. Your car also came with a 2 way oxidation catalyst that only reduces HC and CO. It may also have the EFE system on the right exhaust manifold that is Early Fuel Evaporation which prevents the fuel from becoming liquid again on a cold engine. It is also has a thermostatic air cleaner and fuel evaporative canister. If your motor was changed as you mention, then its possible some or all of these emission controls have been removed. Depending on how much was changed, the emission controls could be reinstalled without too much trouble.

I have smogged (emission tested) three different Avantis all with 400 V8s with no problems here in CA where the rules are from what I hear stricter than Europe. I also own a 78 Bentley which has all of the emission controls I mentioned plus dual carburetors. I have to smog it every 2 years. No problem.

These older vehicles have to have all the emission controls functioning, and the engine and carburetor tuned properly and they pass with no trouble. Last, make sure your engine is in good condition and has good compression. Check the compression BEFORE doing any expensive tuning or parts replacement. I can't count the number of times big money was wasted replacing spark plugs, wires, filters, carburetors, etc. just to still have an engine whose emissions could not be reduced because the engine was worn out.

Please post your emission test results, what you tested and the passing limits established by your authorities. We can give you some direction on what repairs may be needed.

Edited by Paul K.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Avanti's came with the 400 SBC engine 72-76. Sounds like a 350 may have been put in somewhere along its history. The build sheet from Avanti Motors would also have the motor number listed on it. I believe it was handwritten on my 76's build sheet. I also concur with Paul about the Rochester Quadra-jet carburetor, evaporative canister, thermostatic air cleaner and cat. convertor being on the 76's with the 400 motor as that is how my 76 was equipped (with the exception of the cat. convertor) when I purchased the car from it's 3rd owner.

That engine serial number on Ingeborg's engine is a much longer number than was on my 76's motor as well.I don't have the build sheet in front of me while on the forum, but I remember it having around 6 digits. I'll post the number when I'm back home tonight.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks everybody for all your help... anybody knows where i can find NOSTALIC MOTORS ? they could maybe have a copy of the original building sheet if i give them the vin number ??? quit difficult all those technical details for old cars... I'm learning... nice detail, the guy who sold me the car in spain said the car belonged to a rich arabian sjeik.... exciting no ? i will post a picture from the car...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The engine number for my 76, RQB-2392, is TI211C8B, an 8 digit number sequence. Ingeborg, your engine number has a 17 digit number sequence, which is most likely a Chevrolet VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) that probably identifies a 1971 Chevrolet of some type.

I also noticed your Avanti RQB-2403 is only 11 after my RQB-2392.

Edited by plwindish
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree that engine appears to be a 1971 engine with a VIN stamped on it.

To be more certain, other numbers can be checked.

There is a casting number in raised characters on the top left rear of the engine, on the "collar" for the bell housing to bolt to, and similarly, a casting date on the right rear. Those numbers might give more corroborating clues. My casting date information covers up to about 1971, but I expect it carries forward to later years.

Very few casting numbers bridge the timeframe from 1971 to 1976, those few being...

3911460 1969-80

3932388 1969-76

3970010 1969-79

3970014 1968-76

6250425 1968-76

Note that none of those ranges include a 1971 and 1981 possibility, nor a 1976 and 1966 or 1986 possibility,

so if one of those casting numbers had a date code string (see next paragraph) ending in 6, it would have to be 1976,

or if it ends in 1, it would have to be 1971... so a 2-digit year code (see below) is not necessary to determine the year.

The date code string should start with a letter (A=January, B= February, etc) followed by 2 to 4 digits: depending on the day of the month (single digit or 2 digits), and year (single digit or very rarely 2 digits, depending on the casting foundry):

B1274 was cast on February 12th of 1974

F124 was cast on June 12 of (probably) 1974

C14 was cast March 1st of (probably) 1974

Here's a sample of the smog plumbing you should likely see atop your engine:

http://personal.linkline.com/car-nuts/MiscPhotos/smog%20equipment.JPG

It would also have an exhaust catalytic converter, and possibly an exhaust manifold air injection system (pump and tubing, but

that air injection system may have only been required on cars sold in California).

Here is a current listing on eBay for an emissions equipment shop manual that might be of interest to you:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1976-G-M-EMISSIONS-SHOP-MANUAL-SET-VETTE-CAMARO-FIREBIRD-CADILLAC-MORE-/131425659985?hash=item1e99946c51&vxp=mtr

Edited by WayneC
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guys, you were all of a great help. I going to find out, write to nostalig motors and I will let you know the results of my quest... trying to post a picture from the car but it is not possible ..; sorry! i do not have the url as it is in my computer... thanks again !! ingeborg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My friend with the 1980 ( like Ingeborg's) also removed the 5 MPH 'cow catcher' front bumper on car...I believe the brackets that support the absorbers had to be 'burnt' off the frame rails to complete the removal job!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There's two ways to do it. Remove the bumper and put fog lights in front of the frame extensions, or remove the extensions from the frame and cut them, but that involves supporting the body and removing the front body mounts while the surgery is being performed, then reattaching the frame extension and welding new stainless into the grille to fill in the holes where the extension extruded out.

I chose the latter method since I didn't want fog lights sitting under my bumper, although I used that method the first year I had the car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

RQB3263....Removing the 5mph bumper was the first thing i did to my car last year...it was ugly and an Avanti restorer wanted it...I made block-off plates to cover the holes and installed small 3/4 inch hole amber LED park lights...I also installed a Scoop/spoiler/i dont know what you call it from the bottom lip of the inlet opening..Its painted black and is almost not visible...also installed a cylindrical trans cooler behind the scoop spoiler....all works well temps below 185....New cam and lifters are complete, hope to install heads today and fuel filter/shutoff today...adios for now ...RQB3263 BILL

Link to comment
Share on other sites

RQB3263, I did the same thing with my Safety bumper and mounted the driving lights that were on the safety bumper onto the end of the frame extensions. A Saturn type air deflector had been put on the car a one point in its earlier life so I didn't have to do that. The spacers at the bottom of the front coils were also removed along with having the rear springs re-arched put a modest rake back into the 76's stance as well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Took the "cow catcher" off my '79. Mounted the Cibie lights to block-off plates on the 5MPH bumper ram housing ends.

Hand made an air dam/splitter mounted to the underside rear edge of the front panels. Bumper end to bumper end.

The center section hangs down 4" and is angled forward at the bottom app. 45*. The ends direct the rest of the undercar air

around to the bottom of the front wheel-well openings. Plenty of clearance, additional air flow, and looks great painted the body color

I also removed the grill and fabricated air block-off panels to direct all air from the splitter directly through the radiator.

The panels close off the open area behind the front panel from the grill opening up, completely forcing all the air across the radiator surface.

Painted semi-gloss black they are almost invisible too.

Will have to wait for summer to test but feel sure this will be an improvement. I've done this same thing on other cars I have owned

and it helped a lot each time.

Tried loading a pic but even on the smallest setting the file is too big.

I also rebuilt the rear springs. Using tires to get a 5* front "rake" to approximate the "Avanti Stance". The tires chosen leave a 2"

even gap between the tire circumference and the wheel opening both front and rear. And the bigger rear tires will help the 3.08 rear gear

get the car down the highway easier. Maybe even better gas mileage too, as if it matters much. A win-win situation for me.

I like my cars to "sit up on the suspension" with a modicum of "authority".

That's my story and I'm sticking to it!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...