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About brad

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    AOAI Forum Member
  • Birthday 04/04/1960

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    Avanti's, Studebakers, any interesting vehicles, pets,family.....

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  • My Avanti
  1. I did the gold R1 that recently sold for 59,000 The white R2 currently offered is nicer, and had more done to it than just the cosmetic restoration I did. A complete nut and bolt restoration with every part taken back to as new condition, is well over the asking prices even high end brokers get for vehicles. It is worth having a professional broker your car, as they don't market to the walmart crowd. I always say if you want the market values to rise, then market to upscale buyers. it isn't elitist to know whom to market to, and how to get their attention.
  2. Correct, they fit in the lower scoop area where the brackets come through the body. Not the nose panel just behind the bumper.
  3. The arms get bent and that puts side pressure on the pins, that the clips can't hold. Also, the rear track has an inwards, and outwards adjustment at the bottom of the track inside the door.
  4. you can install it either direction, but only one way is correct. The long leg goes to the radiator.
  5. I have seen both tacks and screws. I believe screws are correct. Glue is better. use the regular strength, not the super stuff. even tacky glue from Hobby Lobby, Michaels, Hancock Fabrics....etc. will work. Put the seat riser vinyl down first.
  6. 1950 was their highest production year. In terms of profits, I don't know.
  7. If you are just talking about the top , then there are 6 holes. One at each "dome" just outside the top airhorn gasket area, and one behind the rear most center screw tower. Don't forget the accelerator pump hole. So, #2
  8. R3 engines all use the Avanti water manifold, regardless of body type.
  9. .045 is what I drill 'em out to
  10. Cosmetic changes to the valley pan don't qualify as mechanical changes.
  11. Where the front fenders bond to the cowl or firewall, and were the rear 1/4 panels bond to the inner wheel housing mainly in front of the rear wheels, Also the seams tend to shrink and show up at the rear above the tail lights, and also the seams between the trunk and rear window. Also the tops of the fenders, and the top of the 1/4 panel where it bonds to the roof skin Where would you like it to show after spending hard earned money on a restoration? Should we leave all the "Defects" in just so you can say it is as the factory made them? Things shrink nd change over 50 years. I say make them the best you can as if the company had no restraints in time or money in producing them. ALL factry produced cars are a compromise in this regard.
  12. No Avantis didn't ALL have the same steering box. I know this for a fact. Pre production prototypes, tried a Saginaw recirculating ball type, like Larks, but with a stub shaft, and rag joint. I have seen one with my own eyes, at a May swap meet in South Bend, and also one currently being restored in Washington state has one installed.
  13. no I can think of cosmetic changes, not mechanical
  14. Blade bumpers. Just like Corvette, and Jaguar
  15. Just buy a new one from Jim Turner. Available in braided stainless steel, with a stealthy black rubber coating. No one will ever know except it will never fail again