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Avanti83

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About Avanti83

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    AOAI Forum Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bay City, Mi

Previous Fields

  • My Avanti
    1983 RQB-3651
  1. 'Hoggy' Avanti!

    By my memory - 8
  2. Electrical

    Just me, but if it were my problem, The first thing I would do is check all the switches for function. Dave said they are all the same so they should all test alike with a VOM for continuity. I needed to clean the contacts on mine in the 74 to get them to function correctly. New ones are available. Also be sure the wires are on the correct contacts as every switch is wired differently. You obviously have power to the overhead panel so I'd get out the 12V probe and check back through the system to see if it goes where it should. Bob has posted an excellent diagram. In fact, I've saved it for reference but the problem is it's for the Stude issue and I'll bet the later ones are different. Possibly with a fuse box. Hard to tell when changes were done but my 74 had a fusebox. It was corroded to crap so I replaced it and rewired the whole car but you may have one also. After I knew the switches were good, I'd put 12V to the switch output to see what is working when you apply voltage to the correct wire. I wouldn't use the switch but just jumper the 12V source to the output wire. If you are worried about shorting something out, just go to the auto store and buy a single fuse harness and some 20 amp fuses and use that to jumper the wires. One of the first places I would check for power is the dimmer switch to be sure it has input and is energizing both circuits when pushed. It's just a matter of back tracking and finding the source of the problem. Not rocket science. Lastly, before you put the overhead panel back, tape or coat every exposed metal surface to be sure it doesn't short out and also be careful to not just jam the wires back into opening. Good luck, Bob
  3. Four Speed Avanti!

    If you decide to go ahead let me know, I'll add what I can. Always appreciate your expertise. Bob
  4. Four Speed Avanti!

    If you do decide to go hydraulic, here's a couple of posts that show how I adapted an OEM GM hydraulic setup into the 74 with the T-56. Nothing says something similar wouldn't work with other setups including after market units. If I were to use a four speed, I'd strongly consider the hydraulic TO bearing but heed KB's advice on the best you can find. Most newer cars with manual trans, I believe, use hydraulic TO bearings so the technology is sound. My setup is on the stiffer side of clutch actuation, very much in line with muscle cars of the 60's and 70's. More leverage would reduce effort. http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/showthread.php?67658-T-56-in-a-74-Avanti-Part-1-Clutch-Hydraulics http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/showthread.php?68211-74-Avanti-Clutch-Master-Cylinder-Mount-T-56 If the pictures don't show and you need a look, I can email or post same. Bob
  5. LED Tail Lights, home made

    Bill Missed you last year but I now have your number in my phone. I'll call you in February and come up and see you. I'll take you up on your offer of the red lenses. Bob
  6. windshield wiper motor

    You can also clamp a pair of vise-grips to the nuts and turn the screws out by yourself if you work alone.
  7. LED Tail Lights, home made

    Wayne I'll be purchasing the red lenses and adding the same LED panels I used in the tail lights to the backup lights for additional brake and tail lights. The 150 OHM resistor is added in the tail light feed line to reduce the voltage so they are not as bright as the turn/brake lights. The LED 1157 bulbs are wired the same way internally. You can see the 150 OHM resistor in the complete assembly shot in the blue feed line in my post and the current must pass through it. To use the lights with a standard flasher (non LED) I used a 30 OHM resister added between the brake feed line and the ground line. Think parallel wiring. I added them to all the lights on my 54K. They work fine but what a pain in the arse. This is the LED flasher I'm using on the Avanti. It works with just one LED light so it should be fine for the car. https://www.ebay.com/itm/LED-No-Load-Electronic-Flasher-12-VOLT-2-WIRE-With-Polarity-Reversing-Adapter/152833558628?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Be sure to get the one with the ground wire. Similar ones without the ground wire didn't work in my applications. Using the LED panel should solve the exposed wiring issue you have shown, if necessary. As far as losing the backup lights, I'd rather have the back of the Avanti glow like an amusement park after dark. Bob
  8. Avanti ll Parts For Sale

    Thanks for the feedback, just hoping.
  9. LED Tail Lights, home made

    Wayne Here are the adapters https://www.amazon.com/Adapters-Sockets-Covert-Wiring-Socket/dp/B007FUF32S And the resistance is 150 ohms if they are auto brightness panels. White should work but they may not be as bright as a total red panel. For the price these things go for I'd give it a try. The OEM Avanti lights aren't that bright to start with so it shouldn't be hard to improve on them. I'll bet some of the panels you are looking at may be brighter than necessary. IDR what my panels were rated for in lumens but I think they were under 100. Just check on the super bright site and search based on those numbers for a start. Good luck, Bob
  10. Avanti ll Parts For Sale

    I'm interested in- Pair of plastic headlight lens with gaskets. Very good condition. Near Perfect $75.00 and Pair of Chrome Headlight Bezels. Have some pitting and scratches and a small chip on the lower lip of one. $100.00 Particularly, if one is driver quality as I just need one. Bob
  11. LED Tail Lights, home made

    Wayne, the resister is installed on the tail light bulbs to reduce the light output. The full voltage (no resistor) is applied for turn and brake lights. The panel is wired so both tail and brake light wires are in the same spot. The full voltage for turn and brake just drives the same lights brighter. I used red because IIRC a red lens only passes red light so any other color would not be as bright as other wave lengths of light except the red wavelengths would be filtered out. I ordered amber 1157 LED bulbs for the front parking lights for the same reason, amber lenses.
  12. LED Tail Lights, home made

    Interesting. When I ordered mine there were 15 and, I think, 100 deg panels. I ordered the 15 deg to maximize the light behind the tail lights as there isn't much exposed from the side of the light and the panels are pretty deep in the housing. IAC, I'm very happy with the brightness.
  13. Avanti Contributors!

    I'll contribute another shot.
  14. Body removal from frame

    I agree with Gary but I'd go farther before I lifted the body. Remove everything you can to reduce weight - radiator and parts, doors, hood/trunk lid, glass front and rear, and the interior parts like the dash etc. I don't like straps through the window openings as they add a force component to the lifting area you don't get with padded beams of some type. Lastly, I'd support the front of the car by adding a strap/cable/etc from the radiator support area to the lift apparatus. I've always built a wood stand with wheels to support the body and be able to roll it around before I lift them. That way you minimize the time the body hangs in the air and you can just roll the chassis out and get the body supported again. Lastly, read the chassis manual to be sure you have all the body bolts out. There are a some that are well hidden if you don't have the manual.
  15. LED Tail Lights, home made

    Thanks to a number of members in previous posts that put me on a track to construct a bright set of LED tail lights. A couple of thoughts first. I used my old housings but needed to modify then by cutting a slot in one side to accommodate the LED panel. I did a quickie measurement initially and thought the panels would fit but they were about 1/8" to large and there was no way to file them smaller without getting into the circuits. I'll start with the finished picture as it shows the completed assembly and the parts needed to create same. I ordered extra 1157 panels to add to my backup lights also. Total cost is under $50. The bulbs are 1157 Red LED panels from Superbrightleds.com. They were being closed out at less than $3/bulb. Because I have rewired the entire car I wasn't interested in using the bulb base so I removed it. I used the red panels with a 15 degree light angle for the build. An important point. When you remove the wires from the base it leaves a resistor behind in the plug. The resistor is necessary to reduce the brightness of the tail light portion. I tried to reuse the ones in the base but no joy. They turned out to be about 150 Ohm resistors so bought 20 of them off Ebay for $4. There was room for two panels in each housing so I used clear Gorilla glue to join two panels. Cut a piece of 1/8" ABS sheet to cover the slot in the housing, grooved it to accept the panel and Gorilla glued it in. This is the housing modified and painted white. If you look below you can see I attached the LED panel assembly with clear silicone and a couple of screws. To exit the light assembly I added a bulb socket stripped of it's internals to hold the wires in place with silicone and also added a three wire Weather pack connector to connect directly into my new wiring harness. Here's a Youtube video of the assembly powered up with a 12 volt battery.
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