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About Avanti83

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    Bay City, Mi

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  • My Avanti
    1983 RQB-3651
  1. I don't know how tall you are but if you are over about 5'10" headroom can be an issue as well as distance from the wheel. There is also the factor of installation of seats from other models. If you are interested in better seats, measure the height of the bottom cushion from the floor to the top of the cushion and prowl the local wrecking yards and car dealerships. Find a seat you like and see if the height and width look reasonable for your car. You can find about any seat you want by going to car-parts.com which is a nationwide parts locating service that most wrecking yards use and you can also. Luckily modern cars have become smaller and you will find most seats from this decade will fit, but measure to be sure. One hint, try to find them with the power switches on the seat not the dash or console. That way you only need to run 12v to the seats to make them function. Try to find 8-10 way adjustable seats to allow you the find the most comfortable driving position. the good and bad news is you will need to fabricate mounts. The Avanti mounting is pretty straight forward but takes a bit of creativity. Custom mounts will also let you move the seat position back if necessary. For my 74 I picked up a set of Pontiac G6/GTO leather seats and built the mounts. Initial mount mockup The mount has changed a fair bit from this pix but it will give you an idea. There are after market seats that have mounts available for Avanti but I believe you will give up the power which I think is a major factor. Also choose a set with heat if your back bothers you. Again, pretty easy to hook up. I made sure I took the under seat harnesses with the seats, that way I had all of the correct connectors to power up. Wiring diagrams are usually available through Google. Bob
  2. Two options. Start by measuring and profiling the hose you need and go to the Gates website and look over the hoses they show. See if one is close. Remember that a larger hose can be reduced by using the adapters Gates also offers. Secondly, take a piece of heavy wire and bend it to the shape necessary. Take that to your FLAPS and see if they will let you into the backroom to match it up. Remember here you only need to use the appropriate portion of a longer hose. A last method is to join a couple of hoses and use the plastic clamps Gates also manufactures. They are a plastic ring that shrinks to clamp the hose and look pretty decent installed. Bob
  3. The SB Stude club did this with former Studebaker employees a while back in 84 bldg. Many had worked in the locations we visited and had numerous stories about assembling the cars. One told about installing the windshields and the force necessary to set some in place. He said not all of them survived the process. I can't remember time better spent at a Studebaker event than interacting with the previous employees. Don't miss this event. It might be advisable to publish the location of the Gillespie Center. Thanks a ton to whomever set this up. Bob
  4. If everything has been drained probably close to two gallons but why not just start with a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and pour it in until it won't hold anymore, start the engine and add more as needed. Then just fill the overflow reservoir to the full mark and let it heat up well, purge the air and drive the wheels off of it. Just watch the overflow so it's not empty when the engine cools for a few cycles. It will take what it needs and there's no need to guess. If the heater was drained, you may want to pull off a hose before you fill the rest of the system and fill the heater with the valve open, then fill the system until it reaches the hose, reconnect the hose and then finish refilling the system. Bob
  5. I'll say false as the only change to the Hurst unit would be the shifter mod IIRC.
  6. I Think Dan has the production order but not sure about the window sticker. If you can get the production but not the window sticker you might be able to make one. This is the one off my 83. I could send you a copy if it will help. Bob
  7. I'll guess true as it was an option on earlier models. 50/50 shot.
  8. Not sure what normal means. If listed in the brochure means normal which it isn't in my brochure, I'd say true. If it means would they install one I'd say false because my 74 came with a hitch stamped Avanti from the factory so my guess is if there was one available they'd install it if requested.
  9. I'm close to the same issue on my 74. What I plan to do is hold the engagement lever back so it won't engage then loosen the bolts holding the mechanism so they only hold lightly. I'll lower the hood until the pins center in the mechanism, raise the hood and tighten the bolts. I'll then lower the hood again to be sure the pins are still correctly set and then release the engagement lever. I'll probably coat the pin head with chalk to be sure it looks about right. I'll also have a couple padded blocks on the firewall to be sure the hood will only lower enough to let the pins enter the lower mechanism. Raising/lowering the bolts will set the hood depth. Will it work, Don't know but it's a variation of a procedure I've used for years on things like this. Just a minor point, I know the wire goes through the mounting hole but it won't when I install it. Bob
  10. I would think any body shop could do it. It's just bent sheet metal. Personally, IIWM I'd take an icepick and wander around poking at them. Have them pay particular attention to the rear areas if you are uncomfortable under there. Also have them look at the frame rails particularly over the rear wheels and the rear cross member. Good luck
  11. The process is usually known as EDM, electron discharge machining IIRC. Not sure if it works in a plastic matrix, however. We used them in the 80's for die insert work but most of that has been replaced by wire travel EDM. IAC an interesting and quite precise technology generally found in toll and die shops.
  12. Brad Bez, forum member does award winning work. http://bezautoalchemy.com/ Also a good thought on Corvette shops but the Avanti based folks will understand better the in's and out's of the car.
  13. Here's a start http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/showthread.php?87316-63-Avanti-Radiator-Replacement Just Google Avanti Aluminum Radiator or go to Bob Johnstone's site for more info. Pretty straight forward as they take a common size. Just be aware that there may be an outlet size difference. Pretty easy to use a radiator hose bushing if necessary. Bob
  14. Your best bet would be Dan Booth at Nostalgic Motors in Wixom Michigan. You'll need to call him, but he'll know availability of the parts. My guess is it's not going to be cheap if you need to find all the associated parts. Dan can also talk to you about the fabrication aspects. Depending on your budget, it might be easier to find a parts car. Lastly, ask the same question on the SDC forum, I know a couple have been parted out recently over there.
  15. computer command control