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About Avanti83

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    Bay City, Mi

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  • My Avanti
    1983 RQB-3651
  1. I'm running 17 X 8 inch Mustang rims on my 74. I used 2000-04 Bullitt style and the back spacing is fine on the rear. Quite tight on the front so I'm adding a 1/8" spacer. My 83 has 15 X 8 inch custom wheels with about 3.5" BS on the front and about 4.5" BS on the rear. I can get a closer BS on the 83 front but it will take some time.
  2. The 74 Avanti is creeping closer to a finished product so I'm ready to install the front and rear windscreens. Called Dan and ordered the gaskets and installation kit he provides. He said they would be delivered the next day, I'm about 70 miles away. He said to call him back when I see what I have and he'd draw me a mental picture of how he does them.They arrived as promised and I called back. Left a message and Dan called me back about 7:00 PM. We spent better than 1/2 hour on the phone as he described his methodology and a few tricks to ease the installation. We discussed a few points I needed clarity on and we ended the call with him saying to call him a day or so before I install them so he can be sure to answer his phone if he sees my number and need further guidance during the install.So the bottom line is if the installation is less than great, it's all my doing.What a seller. Thanks, Bob
  3. Do you have a price on the repair? It might be worth getting a quote as listing it in this condition severely limits the market. Otherwise, I agree with Gary. List it as-is with a reserve on Ebay and see where it goes. If it doesn't make the reserve, then you can weigh repair vs other options. I assume the damage happened without insurance which is too bad. Here's an 80 that sold on Ebay this year without the damage for a bit over $9K. If you are a seller, they don't bring a lot of money. If you are a buyer, they don't cost a lot. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1980-Studebaker-avanti-11-/252795566577?hash=item3adbca39f1%3Ag%3AR~kAAOSwhlZYuMEC&vxp=mtr&nma=true&si=PYr490rS%2BKztstJ1kOpvZ%2BQvWNo%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 Good luck, Bob
  4. STP oil treatment does have zinc additives in the formulation, the only one I see that doesn't is smoke treatment. I'd guess the the oil treatment is the closest to the original based on level of viscosity improvers so based on this data. False
  5. Monte My guess would be 18 ga but I'll get more specific if you need. Here's a shot of one of the troughs that I found. It needed some work but the other one I bought was new. I had considered just what you are suggesting, fabbing my own, but I got a screaming deal on this pair so I repaired the bad one and installed them. Looks like you bought my 74 from the picture. As I said, I'll help where I can if you want. I would guess that less fancy would be fine as long as the support of the body and rocker panels was there. Bob
  6. When I purchased my 74 it looked like this. The PO had replaced the rusted out hog troughs with 2X6 box. While it stabilized some of the floor there was a fair amount of flexing in other parts of the floor and body when it was stepped on. To replace the hog troughs, you can see I cut the rocker panels out and installed the one piece units. What you don't see is that the entire rocker panels are bonded to the hog troughs when they are in place to provide more structural integrity. This is the start of adding the bonding strips to the hog troughs to adhere the rockers to them. Rockers replaced. I added the pictures to give you some idea of the work involved in replacing them. Gunslinger is correct in that there are ones that can be installed without cutting the rocker panels but the install still requires cleaning and bonding the rocker panel, etc. You can find that procedure on the SDC website or google (hog troughs, dick steinkamp). He published the install. All that to say, if you're not prepared for this effort, buy one that has good hog troughs. I've been told that labor alone can run $2500-4000 for the install. There have been several discussions about using alternative designs to replace these units but IAC, you still need to supply body mounting structure and bond the rocker panels to it to have a rigid structure. OOPs! Just reread my post and see you already own the 77. I guess you can see what's involved now. If I can help with pictures, thoughts, etc, Just let me know. Bob
  7. I don't know how tall you are but if you are over about 5'10" headroom can be an issue as well as distance from the wheel. There is also the factor of installation of seats from other models. If you are interested in better seats, measure the height of the bottom cushion from the floor to the top of the cushion and prowl the local wrecking yards and car dealerships. Find a seat you like and see if the height and width look reasonable for your car. You can find about any seat you want by going to car-parts.com which is a nationwide parts locating service that most wrecking yards use and you can also. Luckily modern cars have become smaller and you will find most seats from this decade will fit, but measure to be sure. One hint, try to find them with the power switches on the seat not the dash or console. That way you only need to run 12v to the seats to make them function. Try to find 8-10 way adjustable seats to allow you the find the most comfortable driving position. the good and bad news is you will need to fabricate mounts. The Avanti mounting is pretty straight forward but takes a bit of creativity. Custom mounts will also let you move the seat position back if necessary. For my 74 I picked up a set of Pontiac G6/GTO leather seats and built the mounts. Initial mount mockup The mount has changed a fair bit from this pix but it will give you an idea. There are after market seats that have mounts available for Avanti but I believe you will give up the power which I think is a major factor. Also choose a set with heat if your back bothers you. Again, pretty easy to hook up. I made sure I took the under seat harnesses with the seats, that way I had all of the correct connectors to power up. Wiring diagrams are usually available through Google. Bob
  8. Two options. Start by measuring and profiling the hose you need and go to the Gates website and look over the hoses they show. See if one is close. Remember that a larger hose can be reduced by using the adapters Gates also offers. Secondly, take a piece of heavy wire and bend it to the shape necessary. Take that to your FLAPS and see if they will let you into the backroom to match it up. Remember here you only need to use the appropriate portion of a longer hose. A last method is to join a couple of hoses and use the plastic clamps Gates also manufactures. They are a plastic ring that shrinks to clamp the hose and look pretty decent installed. Bob
  9. The SB Stude club did this with former Studebaker employees a while back in 84 bldg. Many had worked in the locations we visited and had numerous stories about assembling the cars. One told about installing the windshields and the force necessary to set some in place. He said not all of them survived the process. I can't remember time better spent at a Studebaker event than interacting with the previous employees. Don't miss this event. It might be advisable to publish the location of the Gillespie Center. Thanks a ton to whomever set this up. Bob
  10. If everything has been drained probably close to two gallons but why not just start with a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and pour it in until it won't hold anymore, start the engine and add more as needed. Then just fill the overflow reservoir to the full mark and let it heat up well, purge the air and drive the wheels off of it. Just watch the overflow so it's not empty when the engine cools for a few cycles. It will take what it needs and there's no need to guess. If the heater was drained, you may want to pull off a hose before you fill the rest of the system and fill the heater with the valve open, then fill the system until it reaches the hose, reconnect the hose and then finish refilling the system. Bob
  11. I'll say false as the only change to the Hurst unit would be the shifter mod IIRC.
  12. I Think Dan has the production order but not sure about the window sticker. If you can get the production but not the window sticker you might be able to make one. This is the one off my 83. I could send you a copy if it will help. Bob
  13. I'll guess true as it was an option on earlier models. 50/50 shot.
  14. Not sure what normal means. If listed in the brochure means normal which it isn't in my brochure, I'd say true. If it means would they install one I'd say false because my 74 came with a hitch stamped Avanti from the factory so my guess is if there was one available they'd install it if requested.
  15. I'm close to the same issue on my 74. What I plan to do is hold the engagement lever back so it won't engage then loosen the bolts holding the mechanism so they only hold lightly. I'll lower the hood until the pins center in the mechanism, raise the hood and tighten the bolts. I'll then lower the hood again to be sure the pins are still correctly set and then release the engagement lever. I'll probably coat the pin head with chalk to be sure it looks about right. I'll also have a couple padded blocks on the firewall to be sure the hood will only lower enough to let the pins enter the lower mechanism. Raising/lowering the bolts will set the hood depth. Will it work, Don't know but it's a variation of a procedure I've used for years on things like this. Just a minor point, I know the wire goes through the mounting hole but it won't when I install it. Bob