Avanti83

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About Avanti83

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bay City, Mi

Previous Fields

  • My Avanti
    1983 RQB-3651
  1. Two options. Start by measuring and profiling the hose you need and go to the Gates website and look over the hoses they show. See if one is close. Remember that a larger hose can be reduced by using the adapters Gates also offers. Secondly, take a piece of heavy wire and bend it to the shape necessary. Take that to your FLAPS and see if they will let you into the backroom to match it up. Remember here you only need to use the appropriate portion of a longer hose. A last method is to join a couple of hoses and use the plastic clamps Gates also manufactures. They are a plastic ring that shrinks to clamp the hose and look pretty decent installed. Bob
  2. The SB Stude club did this with former Studebaker employees a while back in 84 bldg. Many had worked in the locations we visited and had numerous stories about assembling the cars. One told about installing the windshields and the force necessary to set some in place. He said not all of them survived the process. I can't remember time better spent at a Studebaker event than interacting with the previous employees. Don't miss this event. It might be advisable to publish the location of the Gillespie Center. Thanks a ton to whomever set this up. Bob
  3. If everything has been drained probably close to two gallons but why not just start with a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and pour it in until it won't hold anymore, start the engine and add more as needed. Then just fill the overflow reservoir to the full mark and let it heat up well, purge the air and drive the wheels off of it. Just watch the overflow so it's not empty when the engine cools for a few cycles. It will take what it needs and there's no need to guess. If the heater was drained, you may want to pull off a hose before you fill the rest of the system and fill the heater with the valve open, then fill the system until it reaches the hose, reconnect the hose and then finish refilling the system. Bob
  4. I'll say false as the only change to the Hurst unit would be the shifter mod IIRC.
  5. I Think Dan has the production order but not sure about the window sticker. If you can get the production but not the window sticker you might be able to make one. This is the one off my 83. I could send you a copy if it will help. Bob
  6. I'll guess true as it was an option on earlier models. 50/50 shot.
  7. Not sure what normal means. If listed in the brochure means normal which it isn't in my brochure, I'd say true. If it means would they install one I'd say false because my 74 came with a hitch stamped Avanti from the factory so my guess is if there was one available they'd install it if requested.
  8. I'm close to the same issue on my 74. What I plan to do is hold the engagement lever back so it won't engage then loosen the bolts holding the mechanism so they only hold lightly. I'll lower the hood until the pins center in the mechanism, raise the hood and tighten the bolts. I'll then lower the hood again to be sure the pins are still correctly set and then release the engagement lever. I'll probably coat the pin head with chalk to be sure it looks about right. I'll also have a couple padded blocks on the firewall to be sure the hood will only lower enough to let the pins enter the lower mechanism. Raising/lowering the bolts will set the hood depth. Will it work, Don't know but it's a variation of a procedure I've used for years on things like this. Just a minor point, I know the wire goes through the mounting hole but it won't when I install it. Bob
  9. I would think any body shop could do it. It's just bent sheet metal. Personally, IIWM I'd take an icepick and wander around poking at them. Have them pay particular attention to the rear areas if you are uncomfortable under there. Also have them look at the frame rails particularly over the rear wheels and the rear cross member. Good luck
  10. The process is usually known as EDM, electron discharge machining IIRC. Not sure if it works in a plastic matrix, however. We used them in the 80's for die insert work but most of that has been replaced by wire travel EDM. IAC an interesting and quite precise technology generally found in toll and die shops.
  11. Brad Bez, forum member does award winning work. http://bezautoalchemy.com/ Also a good thought on Corvette shops but the Avanti based folks will understand better the in's and out's of the car.
  12. Here's a start http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/showthread.php?87316-63-Avanti-Radiator-Replacement Just Google Avanti Aluminum Radiator or go to Bob Johnstone's site for more info. Pretty straight forward as they take a common size. Just be aware that there may be an outlet size difference. Pretty easy to use a radiator hose bushing if necessary. Bob
  13. Your best bet would be Dan Booth at Nostalgic Motors in Wixom Michigan. You'll need to call him, but he'll know availability of the parts. My guess is it's not going to be cheap if you need to find all the associated parts. Dan can also talk to you about the fabrication aspects. Depending on your budget, it might be easier to find a parts car. Lastly, ask the same question on the SDC forum, I know a couple have been parted out recently over there.
  14. computer command control
  15. If you are talking about referencing the casting marks on a 66 head, here is a guide to casting marks vs part numbers. You can look up the numbers on Google and see what he was referring to in application, quality, performance and uniqueness.